Seasonal products : November

Roquefort Société® ©Manuel Hyunh

La Toussaint venue, rentre tes charrues (c) Targut CC BY 2.0

When All Saints’ Day comes, bring in your ploughs (c) Targut CC BY 2.0

With November the cold sets in and the first frosts occur. Carrots , Turnips , Jerusalem artichokes , Potatoes , crosnes and other raves are already picked and stored under sand at a suitable temperature. They will thus supply the markets during the whole winter. As for the cabbages

, green, red, kale, Romanesco, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and all the others, they are perfect. The first frosts benefit them! They soften them and increase their digestibility for delicate stomachs.

With the cold comes the envy of simmered dishes whose long cooking warms the atmosphere. Pumpkin soups, first stews, stews, roast goose on a bed of sauerkraut … The cuisine is full of flavors.

The tide is rich in shellfish : oysters , prawns and clams allow sumptuous seafood platters. scallops are fleshy as you wish, it is time to enjoy them.

November is one of the very good months for the game . Why is it tastier than before? Is it hard to say? But it is a fact that all true gourmets admit. You have to serve partridges, pheasants, roe deer without parsimony. A hare à la royale, prepared in the manner of Senator Couteaux, preceded by a good foie gras, can revive the most blasé palate in November.

cheeses

are numerous to be in their period of excellence. The pressed cheeses, Abondance, Comté, Beaufort, made with spring milks and a prolonged maturing, are in all their splendor. The Munster too, or the Maroilles which are well suited to the spirit of late autumn meals. The Roquefort cheese comes back very fat, the winter one is at its peak. The Vacherin du Mont d’Or is irresistible, better than in October and almost as good as in December.

Roquefort Société® ©Manuel Hyunh

Roquefort Société® ©Manuel Hyunh

In the fruit market, there is a profusion of citrus fruits (clementines, tangerines, oranges) and excellent apples and pears. But the fruit no longer comes out of the orchard – it’s too cold – but from warehouses, and imports are now the rule. Make way for pies, charlottes, strudels, crumbles are the best desserts of November.

As usual by clicking on the words in pink, you arrive on the list of recipes using this ingredient.


In the vegetable garden :


    Celery

  • : It is the celeriac that is in the spotlight this month, as well as other root vegetables: carrots, turnips, etc.
  • Brussels sprouts

  • : Abundant from September to January, it is best after the first frosts. November is often its first month of excellence. It must be cooked quickly “al dente” so that it keeps its aroma. The crosne
    : The return to forgotten flavors brings this vegetable with a very fine taste back into fashion. It is accompanied by fresh butter, cream and a lichette of Parmesan cheese to make a tasty and unusual gratin. : Curiously scorned here is another very interesting vegetable in taste.
  • blette or chard: Those who know it like its white ribs, tender and crisp, with leaves of a more or less accentuated green.
  • leeks

  • : Large winter leeks are delicious in creamy soups.
    endive
  • : Very good with pheasant or roast veal, it can be served raw in many crunchy autumn salads.

  • Pumpkin : In great shape!
Salsifi ©FoodPicture shutterstock Salsifi ©FoodPicture shutterstock

They are coming :


The cauliflower

    : The breton, big white ball and dappled is perfect. It suffers a little from disaffection. Yet it is full of vitamins and delicious raw, in small bunches to be dipped in a mayonnaise or cottage cheese based sauce depending on diet constraints. The important thing here is the seasoning of herbs or spices which enhances the sauce and gives it its charm.

  • : It would be a shame to push it away without having tried it. A purée, in the traditional way, or a gratin can be a way to rehabilitate this excellent vegetable of yesteryear.
  • : The

  • tomatoes : You can still see them on the shelves. Avoid them now, their season is definitely over.

: In the orchard :


    : Beurré-Hardy, Doyenné du comice and Conférence are currently at their optimum. For cooking with wine, the conference pear is the best choice. The others are perfect with a knife or in a Bourdaloue tart, buried in a soft bed of almond cream.

  • : It is not yet the season of the French varieties. But New Zealand kiwis are ripe and cheap. : pineapple :
  • By choosing a “plane pineapple”, so called because it is shipped by plane which allows to pick it when ripe, the gourmand will not be disappointed. Among the news, the most interesting to report in November: Canada’s Grey Kidney (a classic winter apple with a rough and thick skin), Boskoop’s Beaute de Boskoop (tangy) and the all green Granny Smith (very acidic and resistant). All three varieties are good for cooking and are particularly suitable for pies, stewed fruit and caramelized preparations.

Ananas bio

  • The grapefruit: We were looking forward to this fruit incorrectly called grapefruit (real grapefruit is not edible). The best specimens come from Florida. They arrive yellow or pinkish. Avoid the ruby , variety of a more accentuated red which does not give to the flesh any additional flavor but on the contrary a slightly sweet impression, sometimes reproached to the blood orange. : The evolution of the taste of the consumer pushes the agronomic research to find seedless and more acidulous species. The research has been successful. Citrus fruits are very prolific in hybrids of all kinds. It is interesting for the gastronome to follow the evolution of the varieties which seems infinite and to establish his own references.

: Their moment of grace is over. Let’s move on to dried figs, which can be succulent by the way.

  • At the fishmonger :
    The
  • bouquet

: It is abundant, it is one of its best months.


    Saint-Jacques

  • : It made its comeback since October 1st. It will be for six months the star of the fishmongers?
    The
  • squid

  • : Always good and abundant. Attractive price.
    The
  • herring

  • : In high season and filled with its delicate milt. November is one of its best months.
    sole
  • : It proliferates less than in February or March. It is therefore more expensive but it is succulent at the moment. Small or large, choose it with a shiny skin and a white belly. A sand colored back is better than a too dark back.

  • : It is more expensive but it is succulent at the moment.
  • The sea bream : The frying pan becomes really interesting. Its season will last six months. Prefer the big ones, to be baked in the oven, on a bed of herbs and white wine.

Sea bream Natasha Breen shutterstock

Daurade Natasha Breen shutterstock

The

red mullet

    : Second month of full season. Price among the most advantageous of the year.


  • : The
  • sardine

: There are still a few sardines on sale, but they are thinned by egg-laying and much less good.


: The

    anchovy

  • : There are almost none left. The one we eat this way, which is not the same as the one we fed, is often “labelled”. It tends to disappear over the years, as its breeding conditions are so demanding and go against industrial imperatives (speed and quantity). The domestic farm goose, fed on grain and living outside in vast spaces, is raised mainly for the end of the year festivities. It is found in particular from November to January. Its flesh is succulent and typical. : The pheasant
  • : Buy it “in feathers” (or not) and check its slaughter date. Do not make him wait too long in his feathers.


  • : Cooking it is no more difficult than cooking pork, even if a small marinade can be useful to prepare its flesh. Autumn garnishes : chestnuts, pears, apples, grapes and quinces, will delight him. With perhaps a small creamy purée of celeriac to enhance its taste.

  • The hare : The famous Senator Knives stew remains in the imagination of the gourmet as one of the most delicious ways of accommodating it “à la royale”. A good hare remains an exceptional product deserving the most vivid attention. ) or sheep’s milk (Ossau-Iraty des Pyrénées) are flavoured because they are made with milk from the summer mountain pastures which are marketed from November to March. : The products that arrive :
  • : Pure wonder that the Vacherin du mont d’or (cheese under AOC) which is beginning to appear on the shelves. At the end of the month, it will be sumptuous and almost at its peak, as it seems to keep getting better during the winter months.

: The

chaource

    : It comes out of four exceptional months. It remains good however.


  • Neufchâtel
  • : This cheese with a flowered rind, originating from the Bray region, whose shapes vary (heart, bung or briquette), is leaving its period of excellence like the other great Norman cheeses. But it is a cheese under AOC which remains of satisfactory quality throughout the year.

  • : The goats
  • : These are the most seasonal cheeses. They are at their best from April to October. From November the best disappear. Seeing them all year round usually means that they can be made with milk or frozen curd.

Click here to discover all my recipes of season .

For more information on the products, I recommend the book from which this information is taken: L’almanach du gastronome.

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