To answer right away to my friends who tease me about staying at Bordeaux center and that I rarely go outside the boulevards ;), I tell them right away:
Did you see, friends, I went to Talence. Isn’t that great?
And if I went there it is for a good reason, it is to discover the cuisine of Younesse Bouakkaouithe young chef of the Reserve at the Pavillon du Château Raba.
The location is a bit unlikely. Imagine a very pretty 18th century pavilion, built by the Bordeaux architect Victor Louis, in the heart of a bucolic park, just behind Kedge and the school of architecture. One would never suspect for a second the presence of such an establishment here.
Younesse Bouakkaoui Younesse Bouakkaoui’s cuisine is authentic, quite classic in appearance (but not so much in reality), technical, and absolutely delicious. He has a great attention to detail and I found his dishes very elegant. Originally from the Médoc, he studied at Cordeillan Bages with Thierry Marx and Jean Luc Rocha, then with François Adamski at Gabriel and also with Hugo Naon at El Nacional, to name but a few.
What interests him is the balance and texture of his dishes. Here’s what I tasted this week for lunch:
Appetizer: Cream of carrot soup flavoured with coconut, carrot confit with citrus and smoked haddock
The sweetness of the carrot is enhanced by the strong flavour of the smoked haddock, which is delicious.
This is followed by the signature dish of the chefof the Wagyu beef chuck confit, beef marrow, light béarnaise and last truffles of the season.
I really enjoyed this dish where power meets finesse.
After the meat, the fish with this fine raviole of green and black pastry, fresh faisselle, olive oil, lacquered eel and the first asparagus of the season.
The whole thing is spiced up with sesame oil, it’s very good.
The chef also made us taste his smoked pigeon with hay, toast with offal purée, pigeon leg confit, grenaille potatoes confit, quince purée and duck juice. What a program isn’t it?
The pigeon is perfectly cooked and I really like the little quince purée that accompanies it.
Next comes the pre-dessert, the false cigar. A little touch of fun, the illusion is perfect. It is inspired by a realization of the chef Michel Trama who proposed him a cigar in nougatine. Younesse makes it with an apple purée tuile. It’s super light, crispy and airy.
And finally the dessert : Cheesecake cream, marinated gingerbread, candied carrot strands, carrot ice cream and raspberry coulis.
In short, an excellent address, very pleasant on nice days, far from the bustle of the city.
The price of the menus varies from 27 to 87 €.
Restaurant la Reserve at the Pavillon Du Château Raba
35 Rue Rémi Belleau,
It’s not the same.